If you have never had exterior cladding fitted before, knowing exactly what to expect at each stage makes the whole process far less stressful - here is how a proper cladding job in Lakenheath unfolds from start to finish.
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Before a price is discussed or a material is chosen, a proper cladding job starts with a thorough look at what is already there. This is not a quick walk round the outside. A decent assessment covers the condition of the existing wall surface, the presence or absence of any existing insulation, how windows and doors are currently detailed at their junctions with the wall, and whether the soffit, fascia and any roof overhang leave enough room for the cladding thickness being considered.
On properties that already have cladding fitted, the assessment also covers the current boards, the fixing system behind them, the condition of any battens or subframe, and whether there is a breather membrane already in place. If the existing framework has deteriorated, it needs replacing rather than re-using. Fitting new boards to an old, soft batten system is a waste of money.
At this stage we also note any particular exposure on the relevant elevations. A sheltered rear wall and an open front or side wall may call for different specifications, particularly if the front is hit regularly by wind-driven rain.
Once the survey information is gathered, the material and fixing specification can be put together properly. This includes the board product and profile, the batten dimensions and spacing, the breather membrane type, the fixing specification (stainless fixings are standard for exterior use), and the trim and flashing details at junctions.
A written quote should set all of this out clearly. If a quote simply says "supply and fit cladding" with a total price, it is worth asking for the full specification in writing before you accept. A price difference between two quotes often comes down to what is and is not included in the system behind the boards, not just the boards themselves.
Cladding installed without a ventilated cavity, or over a wall with no breather membrane, can cause damp problems that take years to appear but are costly to put right once they do.
On most residential jobs, the first day on site involves setting up access equipment, protecting ground-level planting, paths and surfaces below the working area, and, where relevant, removing any existing cladding, gutters or downpipes that need to come off before the new system goes on.
Gutters and downpipes are frequently the most fiddly part of the setup process. They need to come off cleanly, be stored or replaced, and be refitted at the correct fall once the new cladding is in place. If your gutters are old and brittle, this is a practical moment to replace them at the same time rather than risk cracking them during removal and refitting.
The wall behind the cladding needs to be sound. Any loose or blown render, crumbling mortar or damaged masonry should be repaired before the new system goes on. Cladding over a deteriorating wall face creates a hidden problem that will not go away.
A breather membrane is then fixed to the wall surface. This is a vapour-permeable sheet that allows moisture vapour to escape from the wall while preventing liquid water from getting in from outside. It is stapled or mechanically fixed to the masonry and lapped correctly at joints and around openings. Skipping the membrane is a false economy. If moisture is trapped between the back of the cladding board and the wall, it accelerates the deterioration of both.
Counter-battens or vertical battens are then fixed through the membrane and into the masonry. These create the ventilated cavity between the membrane and the back of the cladding boards. The cavity allows air to circulate, which prevents moisture from accumulating behind the cladding.
Batten dimensions matter. Too shallow a batten produces a cavity that is too narrow to ventilate properly. The battens also need to be fixed at the correct centres to support the cladding boards without flex or movement. Treated timber battens should be used throughout. Untreated timber in a cavity that sees occasional moisture will deteriorate relatively quickly.
Boards are fixed to the batten framework, working from the bottom of the wall upward. The starting course is critical because every subsequent board sits above it. If the starter course is not level, the misalignment builds up visibly as the work progresses.
Fixings are driven at the correct angle and depth. Over-driven fixings can crush the board face; under-driven fixings leave proud heads that collect water and stain. On most horizontal lap profiles, each board overlaps the one below by a specified minimum distance that should be maintained consistently across the elevation.
Around windows, doors and any penetrations through the wall, flashing and trim details need careful cutting and fitting. These junctions are the most common point of water entry on badly installed cladding, and they require patience to get right. Internal and external corners are finished with purpose-made trim or carefully mitred boards, depending on the material and the aesthetic agreed.
Once the boards are fitted, all cut ends are sealed where the material requires it (particularly important on composite and engineered wood boards), any exposed raw edges at trim junctions are finished, and the top of the wall is detailed where the cladding meets the soffit or eaves line.
Gutters and downpipes are refitted or new ones installed. The fall and positioning need to account for the slightly different overhang geometry created by the new cladding thickness. A gutter fitted at the wrong angle will pond water and overflow rather than drain.
A finished job should leave the property tidy. All off-cuts, packaging and fixings from the working area need to be cleared, and any splashes or dust on windows, frames and ground surfaces should be cleaned off. Before leaving, the installer should walk the elevation with the homeowner to confirm the work is complete, the joints are tight, the fixings are consistent and the junctions are properly sealed and flashed.
If you are planning exterior cladding on a property in Lakenheath, call Thetford Roofers to arrange a survey visit. We will assess the wall condition, walk you through the specification and answer any questions about the process before a price is agreed.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
